Afrique du Sud : premiers safaris

Rédigé par Monique - - 51 commentaires

Vendredi 3 mars



Après une courte nuit peuplée de coassements, de chuintements, de hululements et de cris insolites émis par un peuple de petits animaux nocturnes, nous sommes réveillées à 5h pour partir faire un safari de 2h dans une petite réserve de 1500 ha avec un véhicule 4x4. C'est, pour Martine et pour moi, la première fois que nous verrons évoluer dans leur milieu naturel des animaux que l'on observe chez nous uniquement dans des zoos. Et la chance nous sourit: de nombreux herbivores se trouvent à proximité de la piste empruntée par les 4x4 et nous ne nous privons pas d'immortaliser ces rencontres magiques.

Girafes au port altier qui marchent élégamment à l'amble







Zèbres dont la robe est différente chez chaque individu, comme les empreintes digitales de l'homme.





Gnous



Buffles, animaux paisibles, mais qui n'hésitent pas à charger si l'on se déplace à pied.





Rhinocéros blancs dont le museau se termine par de larges lèvres, ce qui leur permet d'arracher l'herbe au plus près du sol. Le rhinocéros noir possède un museau plus pointu et il se nourrit de feuillages. Nous n'en n'avons malheureusement pas vu.






Tous ces herbivores cohabitent en parfaite harmonie car ils se nourrissent de végétaux de différentes hauteurs: herbe rase, Graminées, feuillages. Le nombre d'arbres d'aspect calciné dans cette réserve nous surprend. Le "ranger" nous explique que les éléphants adorent l'écorce et qu'ils s'en régalent jusqu'à ce que l'arbre meure. Dans les grandes réserves, ce problème ne se pose pas.



Après le petit déjeuner, nous quittons la réserve d' Hluhluwe-Umfolozi pour le parc Kruger, éloigné de 380 km. Nous traversons le Zwaziland, pays grand comme la moitié de la Suisse, très verdoyant en cette période de l'année. Les rares villages que nous traversons sont à l'image des clichés que nous véhiculons depuis des décennies : échoppes bancales recouvertes d'un toit de tôle, femmes portant de lourdes charges sur leur tête ou se déplaçant sous un parapluie multicolore pour se protéger des rayons du soleil. Les hommes, assis à l'ombre, tiennent de longs conciliabules. Dans les champs, à proximité des "maisons" disséminées, hommes et femmes, pliés en deux, sarclent un lopin de terre.



Nous faisons une première halte en début d'après-midi pour participer à un deuxième safari en 4x4 dans la réserve royale de l'Etat du Zwaziland. C'est là que nous rencontrons nos premiers éléphants et que nous nous attardons longuement devant une douzaine de rhinocéros blancs prenant un bain de boue dans une mare.







Notre "ranger" nous propose de faire quelques pas pour aller voir un python digérant l'impala qu'il a avalé quelques jours avant. Notre présence passe totalement inaperçue: il lui faudra un ou deux mois pour assimiler sa proie.



Après ce safari, nous reprenons la route jusqu'à Manzini, la plus grande ville du Zwaziland, où nous passons la nuit.
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